In Austria, wine lovers gather at rustic 'Buschenschank' taverns under open skies. But there are rules! Here’s what makes these spots so special.

Vienna

Buschenschank wine taverns in Austria are a longstanding tradition, offering patrons the chance to enjoy locally produced wine in a vineyard setting. Only wine made from grapes grown on the premises is served, and the taverns are identified by a pine branch, a practice established over 200 years ago and enshrined in local law.

Food offerings are limited to cold regional snacks, as Buschenschanks are not permitted to serve warm meals or non-local soft drinks. These open-air venues operate seasonally, closing during colder months, and are seen as an important part of Austria's cultural heritage.

Austria's Buschenschank: a rustic tavern in a vineyard

How does having a glass of wine surrounded by vineyards sound? Come along to a Buschenschank, a typical Austrian wine tavern and a focal point of tradition and ritual. We'll explain what to look for, what to look out for and what these branches mean, and why you'll never find warm meals there. I'm Fritz Wieninger, the proprietor of this Buschenschank. A Buschenschank is a wine tavern where you're only allowed to serve wine you've produced yourself, and in just a moment I'll tell you all about it. The Wieninger Vineyard Wine Tavern is perched on the Nussberg slopes a few kilometers from Austria's capital Vienna, reachable with a short hike or taxi ride. And you can chat with local people on the way. The Viennese actually have the reputation of being hard to connect with, but I'd say when people get together in a Buschenschank, everyone talks to everyone. You can get away from the city for a while, a green oasis, the freedom. This Buschenschank wine tavern seats 350 on beer benches. It's self-serve here. And it's all in the open air, so there's no shelter from wind and rain. That's why these taverns don't open until spring, usually in April. And they give a clear signal when they do. That bundle of pine tree branches we mentioned. This is a pine branch, the official sign of a real, authentic Buschenschank. People have been using them for more than 200 years, and it's even written into Buschenschank law. Austrians call this bundle of branches a Buschen, and that's where the name of this wine tavern comes from. The essence of any Buschenschank wine tavern is of course the wine. Only the wine made by the Vintners from grapes grown in their own vineyard. The soil around Vienna is full of lime and clay. Which grapes thrive best here? We're actually standing here in a Zweigelt vineyard. Right now it's all still green, but soon the grapes will turn blue and become a fine red wine. On the other side I've got Grüner Veltliner, and a bit further down some Riesling. Patrons who don't drink alcohol can try some of the grape juice also made from the local harvest. Soft drinks are not allowed here. We'll explain why later. First, we'd like to know how many glasses of wine an average patron drinks on an evening. Ah, three, four. I had three, so that's enough for me. You're talking to the wrong people. A bottle each. It's not a question of glasses, but of bottles. So how many bottles per person? I'd say one to one and a half, right? A glass of wine here starts at 4.40 euros. The wine quenches thirst, but what satisfies hunger? Wine taverns serve little snacks like Liptauas, slices of bread with a butter, cream cheese, bell pepper and caper spread, and char or trout on top. Did you notice? All the food items are cold. Buschenschanks are not allowed to sell warm dishes, and so they don't need gastronomy licenses. Even so, the rules concerning beverages are quite strict. Only regional drinks are allowed, which rules out all soft drinks. The Buschenschank tradition began in the 18th century. According to legend, Emperor Joseph II permitted vintners to serve wine publicly because the drinking water in Vienna was dangerous. To this day, these taverns have never lost their appeal, even though the wine is served cold. That makes me especially proud, because it's such an essential part of carrying this piece of cultural heritage into the future. But at some point, the time for the last glass has come. When exactly? Officially at 10, but it depends on the weather. On a mild summer night, we might keep going till 11. Once the wine sees that it's ready, Once the wine season is over, the Buschenschanks close and stay closed until the next spring.

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