With its Ukrainian-inspired dishes that put a modern twist on some of the country's favorite delicacies, Tatar Bunar is getting rave reviews in London.

London

Tata Buna, a new Ukrainian restaurant in London, is drawing crowds and critical acclaim for its traditional dishes such as vareniki dumplings and borscht. The staff, many of whom left Ukraine because of the war, are sharing their culture through food in a fashionable London neighborhood. 

The restaurant's menu, designed in collaboration with a Ukrainian partner still in Ukraine, features family recipes and lesser-known Ukrainian wines. Tata Buna aims to showcase the richness of Ukrainian culture beyond the conflict, offering Londoners a taste of Ukrainian comfort food and hospitality.

The Ukrainian restaurant taking London by storm

They look delicious. There's nothing in the kitchen, or perhaps even the world, Wow. Look at them. quite as Ukrainian as the Varaniki. Which stuffing are you using? This is cheese. Cheese. They're bite-sized dumplings, wrapped in delicate pastry and stuffed with pork, cabbage, potato or cheese. Luba Barilla makes around 200 of them every day. In a new Ukrainian restaurant in London, Tata Buna. I've already messed it up. Oh, look at that. That's gorgeous. Take. Oh, I'm doing this one? Yeah. She gave us a lesson in the art of wrapping Varaniki, which is every bit as tricky as it looks. This one. Oh, it's made a little pointy bit. Okay. That's right. Oh, they're still super hot. Mmm. Mmm. You like? I love it. Luba and most of the rest of the staff at Tata Buna fled Ukraine because of the war. They've found a new home in London, and now they're serving up traditional Ukrainian fare in a fashionable inner-city neighbourhood. After a slate of glowing reviews by some of the UK's most illustrious food critics, Tata Buna was booked out for weeks in advance. Anna Andrienko is the restaurant's manager and comes from Ukraine's capital, Kiev. That's something I never expected. We don't have critics in Ukraine, so that's a completely different experience for me. You don't have food critics in Ukraine? We have a few, but we don't have that. We don't have a Michelin Guide. Michelin Guide never came to Ukraine. We were expected four years ago when a full-scale invasion started. Never happened, clearly, but... Hello. Anna's business partner is Ukrainian restauranteur Alex Cooper, who's still living in Ukraine because martial law makes it difficult for working-age men to leave the country. They design the menu over video calls, and many of the dishes draw on Alex's family recipes from southern Ukraine. He must be pretty excited about how successful the restaurant is. I think he would like to visit and see it, but for now it's not possible. Borscht is the top seller on their menu, a hearty Ukrainian soup made from ruby red beetroots. We weren't sure will it work with Londoners, because eating hard beetroot would be quite weird for them, but yeah, it worked, and that's a top-selling dish in the menu. Served alongside it is lard, made from white pork fat. This is your smoked lard, is that right? Yes, that's smoked and that's salted. Is it greedy to try both? No, it's upset. There's also chiburek, a deep-fried parcel of lamb and beef. Healthy it is not, but delicious it definitely is. We need some napkins for that paper, please. You know how to eat chiburek. I know it's messy. It is. For us Ukrainians, that's a taste of childhood. It's very special, these are Ukrainian comfort foods, and you've taken it and kind of elevated it into high cuisine. If you don't have Ukrainian roots, if you don't have Ukrainian friends, probably you never tried Ukrainian cuisine if you've never been to Ukraine, right? And another surprise on the menu is the wine, also from Ukraine, and barely known outside the country. And I guess the expectations are low, but when they try it, like, wow, that's amazing. For three and a half years, Ukrainians have been fighting off a terrifying Russian invasion. They've laid down their lives to protect their nation, tens of thousands of them. And they've won admiration for their courage and stoicism. But as their nation struggles for its very survival, many Ukrainians want people to know more about their country than battlefields and bomb shelters. At Tata Buna, they're using piquant pickled tomatoes, charred lamb and eggplant, and plump vareniki to send a message to their customers about their homeland. What is it that you want them to understand about Ukraine through this food? I mean, war is important, but we're more than that. We have culture, we have cuisine, we have musicians, we have all the arts you can imagine. People aren't coming here because they pity you or feel sorry for Ukrainians. You don't go out on Friday night in order to pity someone. You know, you go out to have a nice time, right? To try something new, to hear the story you never heard about, to have an experience. At Tata Buna, they have a story to tell. A country ravaged by war, battling to protect not just its people, but its culture.

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