Bazin fabric is a vibrant craft in Mali, but its beauty hides environmental and health costs. Some artisans are pioneering cleaner dyeing methods.

Bamako

In Mali, the traditional dyeing of baisin, a glossy damask fabric popular across West Africa, has long relied on chemical processes that pose environmental and health risks. To address these issues, some dyers, led by Aminata Kulibali, have introduced a concrete wastewater tank system that prevents contaminated water from entering public sewers and waterways.

The new system, which mirrors industrial standards, involves regular collection of wastewater by sanitation authorities, reducing pollution and setting an example for others in the industry. While some dyers continue to dispose of wastewater improperly, the initiative highlights the potential for positive change in the textile supply chain and underscores the industry's responsibility to protect both workers and the environment.

Mali: Crafting bazin with cleaner dyeing practices

These women are dyeing a fabric that's a staple in stylish wardrobes across West Africa. It's a damask fabric known locally as baisin. It's famed for its glossy finish and distinctive rustle. Here in Mali, an entire industry is dedicated to giving baisin its signature look. The baisin fabric, often imported from Germany or Austria, starts out white. It's then dyed, waxed, and beaten to achieve a vibrant, textured appearance. But the dyeing process is problematic. Most use chemicals that pollute the environment and endanger people's health. There were times where we had nowhere to empty the water, and some people said our wastewater was contaminating their well or tap water. Aminata and her team set out to address the problem. To collect the wastewater, she had a concrete tank built underneath the dyeworks. The tank is divided into different chambers, built to the same standard used in industrial factories. It cost the company around 7,500 euros. Now the wastewater no longer flows into the gutters or public sewers. Every three months, the sanitation department comes to collect the wastewater by truck. The service costs a further 90 euros each time, but Aminata Kulibali says the investment is worth it. We have a responsibility to keep the workplace clean, to protect our employees, and to be an agent of change in the community. Meanwhile, some other street dyers still dispose of wastewater directly into the canal, leading to the Niger River. The fashion industry is one of the world's biggest polluters, responsible for high carbon emissions, excessive water use, and water pollution. The dyers in Mali are just one link in the supply chain. But change is possible across that supply chain, and essential. We've even taken training courses on this. We don't want to experience the same problems that our mothers faced in this profession.

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