Growing up in Spain, Kwame Ondo didn't see Black people in the history books and it never sat right with him. He began to look into what he calls a "silenced history" - and his tours help others to do the same.

Madrid

Walking tours led by Kwame Ondo in Madrid are focusing on the city’s often-overlooked Black history, bringing attention to stories and symbols related to slavery and colonialism that are seldom included in Spanish educational materials. Ondo, whose family is from Equatorial Guinea, created Afro Iberica Tours to fill this gap, catering mainly to foreign tourists interested in learning about Spain’s Black heritage.

The tours are part of a broader movement in Spain to address the absence of Black history in the national narrative. Groups like Madrid Negro use activism, poetry, and commemorative plaques to honor forgotten figures and highlight the connection between Spain’s prosperity and its colonial past. Participants and organizers express a personal connection to this work and a desire to make this history more visible.

Walking tours shed light on Madrid's hidden Black history

This symbol is one of the symbols for slavery in Spain. Kwame Ondo's tours of downtown Madrid don't take in the usual sights. They focus on a black history that rarely appears in textbooks or the collective memory. A nail and an S. It's a nail. Nail in Spanish, clavo. You put it together with the S, it's clavo. Ondo's family moved to Spain from Equatorial Guinea, a former Spanish-ruled territory that gained independence in 1968. Seeing no black people in history books never sat right with him, so Ondo looked into it, joining a trend in other European cities where slavery and the colonial legacy are seldom acknowledged. So I thought, there's something they're not telling us. And being so close, growing up in Andalusia, where I would hear places called the Corner of the Blacks and such, I knew something was going on. Obviously, when you start to research, you realise it's a silenced history that has been erased. His company Afro Iberica Tours mainly caters to foreign tourists, especially black Americans. Reginald Young says other tours he's taken haven't touched on the subject. And so when I was doing my research ahead of the tour, I saw this black renaissance in the history of Spain. I just said, I want to find out what the black history aspect of Spain was. A historian at NYU Madrid, Antumito Asige, says there's an absolute void in Spain's historical narrative. The Madrid Negro, or Black Madrid, collective takes an activist approach to redressing that balance. Attendees read poems like Still I Rise by Maya Angelou and paste plaques honouring forgotten figures from black history. Co-coordinator Nieves Cisneros links Spain's current prosperity directly to slavery. We can't understand capitalism without linking it to our colonial and slavery past. We can't understand the industrial development in Catalonia or the Basque Country without knowing that it comes from the slave trade. Here they light candles for Antonio Solis, member of a brotherhood that covered funeral expenses for poor black residents in the street where he lived. For Madrid Negro member Irene Marine, who is of Haitian descent, this work is personal. My Afro-descendant side is touched by this because it's all very visible. And my Spanish and Madrid resident side says, why didn't I know this or study it? Why wasn't I taught this? What am I going to do now that I know this about my ancestors?

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