Overtourism in Ladakh is triggering an ecological crisis. Local communities are pioneering green alternatives, promoting sustainable travel options and conservation.

Ladakh

In Ladakh, India, local residents are spearheading a movement towards sustainable tourism in response to a significant rise in visitor numbers. The village of Tar has seen a revival as former residents return, drawn by employment opportunities created through eco-tourism. Unlike mass tourism elsewhere in Ladakh, Tar emphasizes longer stays, volunteer work, and cultural exchange, avoiding large hotels and crowds.

The region faces challenges such as congested roads, waste, and water shortages due to tourism outpacing infrastructure. Environmentalists and scientists advocate for better regulation and visitor education, including distributing handbooks on local customs and environmental issues. Tourism remains vital to Ladakh's economy, employing thousands, but local leaders stress the need for responsible travel. Government initiatives now include sustainable tourism expansion and the introduction of electric and hydrogen-powered buses to reduce emissions.

Ladakh locals lead sustainable tourism drive

A pickaxe, a shovel and plenty of stamina, that's all Caitlin Thorrell needs for a perfect vacation day. She and her husband come from New Hampshire in the US. She's been spending her vacations here in Ladakh for more than 15 years. She lives and works together with local residents for up to four months at a time. I grew up in a place where there are many tourists. People come, it's beautiful in the summer. And everyone who lives there is a little bit judgmental of the tourists. So I felt that I wanted to travel, I wanted to learn from another place and I wanted to do it in some good way. I wanted to not just come and take. The village where she's vacationing is called Tar. Until recently, only three families lived here. But now there are 13 again. Former residents have returned because there's work available, thanks to gentle tourism. There are no huge hotels or crowds passing through the village as though it were an amusement park. Lundup Dorje is the driving force behind the development. The 27-year-old was born in Tar but left to study computer science. Now he's back and hopes sustainable tourism can prevent his village from dying out. That's how we are right now, we are targeting, we are promoting eco-tourism only. We call volunteers to walk on the field and mostly we bring guests who stay for a longer period of time, not just for one or two days, so that they can learn from the village. Elsewhere in Ladakh, it's a very different picture. The tourism industry has long since discovered the area. In 2023 alone, the Ladakh region received more than 400,000 visitors. That's double the local population. It's led to congested roads that were not built for so many vehicles. Garbage left strewn about the countryside and water shortages too. Environmentalist Sonam Wangchuk says the tourism industry needs to be better regulated. He says it's a matter of urgency. It's about numbers, it's about timing and it's about places. When tourism started in Ladakh in the 70s, it had a very positive impact. It was small in number, it was people who really were interested in learning about the place. It was more like explorers and travellers. Right now, the sheer number of tourists is overwhelming the infrastructure in the region. Many travellers see it as a problem too. Here at the Himalayan Institute of Alternatives Ladakh, scientists are looking for new approaches to tourism. They also provide important information for visitors. For instance, Ladakh being a desert, does not hold itself well for flush toilets because every flush you lose six litres of fresh water. Before the tourists come, we send out a booklet, the Ladakh Handbook, which talks about the various sacred cultural practices here, the various environmental important matters that they have to heed to. But at the same time, the region depends on the tourists. Tariq Ghani is the President of the Chamber of Commerce and Industries. He says that tourism accounts for more than 10% of the region's economic output. And the 5,000 plus hotels are only part of that story. Three lakh people are employed in tourism, mostly the youth. And directly or indirectly, 20 lakh people are involved. May be ponywala, houseboat owner, transporters, Kashmir handicrafts, groceries, many more. So tourism is an economic factor, a burden and the great hope for the future all at once. Most of the tourists here are from India. But some come from further afield, like Luke, the 24-year-old student is from the Netherlands. He's been travelling around India and is now spending two weeks here. He's covering the entire route by bike. I think that's a major responsibility. If you visit a place, leave it the same way as when you arrived there. And of course, I think you can never fully escape the emissions. But just try to be aware and if it's possible, try to limit it and to think about the effect you have on the environment as well. It's always a balancing act. To reduce emissions in the region, the government has introduced electric and hydrogen-powered buses. And like the village of Taar, the plan is to introduce sustainable tourism to 12 more villages. Katelyn Thorell will likely remain an exceptional visitor here. Not many people could come to live and work here for several months. She's even learned the language. But if every tourist took a little inspiration from Katelyn, it would surely make a big difference.

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