Name: Japans rising sushi star
Uploaded: 2025-11-29T17:14:51.547Z
Duration: 3 min 56 s
Description: Sushi Meino is one of the hardest reservations to get in Tokyo right now. While less than 6% of Japanese sushi restaurants are owned by women, Chef Mei Kogo and her team are changing the game.

Sushi Meino is one of the hardest reservations to get in Tokyo right now. While less than 6% of Japanese sushi restaurants are owned by women, Chef Mei Kogo and her team are changing the game.

Tokyo

Mei Kogo, a 36-year-old sushi chef, is making waves in Tokyo by leading Sushi Meino, a restaurant that challenges the male-dominated norms of the sushi industry. After enduring long, difficult apprenticeships, Kogo opened her own restaurant 18 months ago, quickly gaining recognition for her skill and leadership.

Sushi Meino features an all-women staff and offers multi-course meals paired with wine, reflecting Kogo's expertise as a sommelier. The restaurant's popularity is evident in its six-month waitlist, and Kogo's dedication to perfection has attracted both fans and apprentices, as well as support from prominent figures in Japan's seafood industry.

Japan's rising sushi star

In a galley kitchen located in a trendy part of Tokyo, preparations are underway for some of the most sought-after sushi in the city. Freshly caught abalone is scrubbed, while baby squid, scallops and eel are sliced with razor-sharp precision. But in a male-dominated industry demanding decades of experience, this restaurant is challenging norms and traditions, with 36-year-old star sushi chef and owner Mei Kogo leading a revolution. I live doing what I love, so work might be when I'm happiest. But it wasn't always this way. When Mei started out as an apprentice, she had to endure 18-hour days in a male-only kitchen, contending with big egos and tempers. Everyone was angry. I was physically exhausted. The environment around me was strict and there was a lot of yelling. The experience, however, only made her stronger. And from that moment, Mei knew she wanted to become one of Japan's first female sushi chefs and start her own restaurant. 18 months ago, that dream was realised when she opened Sushi Meino. She had already attracted quite a following, starring in documentaries and featuring in magazines. But opening Sushi Meino 18 months ago took Mei's celebrity to another level. And some of her most ardent fans are now her apprentices. I think she's one of my idols. Like, when the first time I met her, I was like, wow, this is the person that I always look on Instagram, I always look online. I was like, wow. Does it create a different energy in the kitchen because all your staff are women? Yes, but that's why it's quite calm, I think. And sometimes chatting and happy, like a family. Someone who has supported Mei's career for years is Yukitaka Yamaguchi. Known as the tuna king of Japan, he paid more than $1.3 million for a bluefin tuna at this year's New Year fish market auction in Tokyo, the second highest price ever paid. He sources Mei's tuna and says her desire to constantly pursue excellence is what makes her stand out. The most important thing for someone who provides food is to definitely have an absolute perfect palate. That sensitivity, having watched her since she was young, she possesses it. I put this claim to Mei. People say you have a pitch-perfect palate. Ah, from my mother. Thanks. She has also combined her passion for wine... Champagne and Burgundy. ..studying in France to become a qualified sommelier. The first of two sittings for the evening is now underway. And over the next two hours, these diners will enjoy more than a dozen courses paired with wine for more than $300. The wait list for Sushi Meino is more than six months, but by all accounts, it's well worth it. After all the customers have left, Mei insists on serving me some of her dishes. Please enjoy. This is such a treat. On the menu, medium fatty tuna sushi, creamy sea urchin from Hokkaido... Mmm. ..and sea eel from her fishmonger marinated in soy sauce and sugar. But it was her signature dish, Ohagi... So beautiful. ..that stole the show. Oh, my goodness. I don't want that to end. ..a midnight feast to savour... Mmm. ..and a rare glimpse at a young master driven by perfection. For CBS Saturday Morning, I'm Anna Corrin in Tokyo.

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